The Artisan Cheese Revival

 

Over the past several years, the U.S. has seen tremendous growth in the number and variety of artisan and farmstead cheesemakers. Besides being absolutely delicious, these cheeses are distinctively marked by the unique characteristics of the region where they are made (the French use the term terroir for describing what occurs below the surface of the soil to affect the taste of wines, but this term applies to cheeses and other foods as well). The techniques used in production will also contribute to the unique flavor ways of a cheese. Artisan cheeses are now widely available, and can be found in gourmet food stores and farmers’ markets all over the country. We here at Gathering Home encourage you to explore the world of artisan cheeses.  Learn where to find them online, which are the best books to read on the subject, and even how to make some cheeses at home.

Artisan cheese is defined as cheese that is produced primarily by hand in small batches, using traditional aging and production methods.  Farmstead cheese goes one step further by producing artisan cheese on a farm where only organic dairy products (from that particular farm’s herd of animals) are used.  On these farmsteads, the animals eat only organically grown pasture grasses

and feed, and are not treated with antibiotics or artificial milk-stimulating hormones (Lucky cows, sheep, and goats!).  In addition, they often use sustainable farming methods, such as crop rotation and composting to build and maintain healthy soil, which in turn, encourages biodiversity and closes the loop.

Depending on the type of milk used, the length of aging, and the method in which a cheese is made, it may be firm or soft, moist or dry, mild or strong. No matter what kind, try to taste before you buy.  You can’t judge a cheese by its cover or by its aroma!  Of course, we are going to tell you to look to your local farmers’ market for a cheesemaker but you can try searching the Internet, too.  Fork and Bottle has a healthy list of artisan cheese makers to help you get started.

Think you’d like to try your hand at making cheese?  Here is a simple (yet effective) kit from The New England Cheesemaking Company for making mozzarella, using vegetable “rennet” – it's sure to please vegetarians.

Speaking of rennet, it’s nice to know that plant enzymes can replace the traditional use of animal rennet (an enzyme that comes from the stomach of slaughtered calves, lambs, or pigs). Thistle, mallow, fig, and melon all contain milk-curdling enzymes. In addition, microbial rennets are also increasing in popularity—these enzymes are derived from the growth of pure cultures and molds like Mucor miehei, Bacillus subtilis, or Bacillus prodigiosum. There is no difference in taste between cheeses made with traditional animal rennet and vegetable or microbial rennets. Ask your cheesemonger to let you know what kind of rennet was used.

For the lactose intolerant, goat cheese and sheep’s milk cheese are wonderful alternatives that are more easily digestible than cow’s milk cheeses.  And many of the artisan cheesemakers prefer to use milk products from these animals.